Suzanis played a central role in the lives of the people of Uzbekistan. Pervading all classes and ethnic groups, they are an art form produced by the entire population. Brides would bring to their marriages a number of embroideries made by themselves and their families as textile dowries. The quality of the textiles was the criterion by which their skill and the status of their families would be judged. Large covers of prestigious character served as bedspreads as well as tablecloths or wall hangings on festive occasions. After the ceremony, wedding cloths were frequently stored in wooden chests, accounting for their good condition. – Shakhrisyabz embroideries show the widest borders of all suzanis and use particularly elaborate border designs, two criteria that constitute their distinguishing features. This gorgeous example is striking because it lacks the ubiquitous circular blossoms in the design. Starting from the lower left-hand corner, a lush elongated vine bearing fan-shaped blossoms in various sizes and colours undulates through the main border. The twigs branching from it are decorated with small flowers, including tulips, carnations and blue irises. Drawn with a confident sense of proportion, the design of the field consists of a network of petrol diagonal branches that form compressed diamonds, their points of intersection marked by large red fan-shaped carnations. The curved, slightly concave branches bear elongated leaves with serrated outlines. Several branches are decorated with semi-circular blossoms. This composition is only encountered in a very few suzanis (see examples below). The suzani derives its particular appeal from its high proportion of light and brilliant colours (golden yellow, orange, ochre and light blue). – Good condition. The sides are still backed with the original silk ikat fabric while the canvas backing on the reverse is a later addition.

Literature: BLACK, DAVID & LOVELESS, CLIVE, Embroidered Flowers From Thrace to Tartary. London 1981, no. 23 *** BAUSBACK, PETER, Susani. Stickereien aus Mittelasien. Mannheim 1981, pl. p. 43 *** COOTNER, CATHRYN M., Gardens of Paradise. In: HALI 30, London 1986, no. 4, p. 48 *** HALI 41, London 1988, ill. p. 47 (Burrell Collection Glasgow, inv. no. 30.4) *** RIPPON BOSWELL, auction of 11th May 1991, # 90; auction of 12th November 1994, # 54 and # 113

Published: VOK, IGNAZIO, Vok Collection. Suzani. A Textile Art from Central Asia. (Text by Jakob Taube) Munich 1994, no. 27

Central Asia, Uzbekistan Dimensions 250 x 182 cm.

Age First half 19th century.